Spec-V suggestions

[TopDeadCenter]

Alright, I'm tired of being totally stock(although, it does make it unique). My main concern is going to be handling performance on-track. Just RR, not drags. And super sticky hoosiers are out of the question. So, what can you former and current spec owners suggest for mods. and just saying, tough springs, roll bars, and the like won't cut it. I'd like some backround info on why you're suggesting the specific parts in order to help in my decision making.

P.S. Pricing is somewhat of a concern, so I'm really looking for COST EFFECTIVE methods of improving the handling.

[moxie]

We have some Nissan guys who should be able to chime in on this.

A few recommendations, that may later be shot down.

The Nismo suspension setup might not be a bad idea.
I know Jasons 350Z seems to like the one he got, and all the magazine reviews seemed to indicate it does a lot for the car.

One of the big limiting factors for the Spec V, IMO, is the lack of camber adjustability. You can get crash bolts though and get a decent amount in the fronts.

That rear beam is non adjustable so you are sorta stuck with what you got.

I wouldnt avoid power mods totally either... You can get some meaningful upgrades pretty cheap...

You can find a decent catless header on ebay for $100-180, obx has a full header/mid pipe that deletes both cats for $250.

Also, a CAI for $100 or so can make a difference.

I dynoed at 177HP 180TQ or so with header, intake and catback...
If you want to stay legal keep the mid cat and get an even cheaper header.

I ran the heck out of my $120 OBX header for over a year with no problem... and even if it does crack... they are cheap as well.

[TopDeadCenter]

P.S. UNLESS you know somebody with a set of ultralight 15x8's, i'm not going the supersticky tire route.

p.p.s. I'm thinking about having a rear beam bent to 0 to help rear rotation. does anyone know if the beams are the same on all b15's? I wanna find one from someone else's car, and ship that out, so I can drive my car while the work is being done.

[moxie]

P.S. UNLESS you know somebody with a set of ultralight 15x8's, i'm not going the supersticky tire route.

p.p.s. I'm thinking about having a rear beam bent to 0 to help rear rotation. does anyone know if the beams are the same on all b15's? I wanna find one from someone else's car, and ship that out, so I can drive my car while the work is being done.

For tires, go Hankook ZS212 or whatever, or Falken Azenis RT 615.
I wouldnt step up to race rubber all that quick, but thats me.


I believe all of the Spec Vs and maybe SE-Rs should be the same.
Marketing literature lead me to believe that the support bar in the center of the Spec V beam was bigger.
Beam bending supposedly does magic

[TopDeadCenter]

Changes rear toe-in (stability) to whatever my high $, finely-tuned, Swedish Pucker-Sensor can tolerate.

[moxie]

I know what it does :)

My statement was more an indication that bending the rear beam is magic, meaning awesome.

Most times people just take out the toe in and go to 0* toe in the rear.
People report very good results.

[91s13]

The rear beams are not the same on all the cars. The tube in the middle is what is essentially the stab bar. The Spec V has the largest one available in the US. It is easy to srew one up. As far as suspension, stay away from lowering springs. There isn't enough suspension travel as it is stock. The NISMO susp package is a really really good upgrade but is pricey. Adding more front camber helps. Around 1.5 - 2.0 deg should be good. Any more than that and you start losing straight line traction and increase the torque steer. As far as the rear beam. I wouldn't touch it unless you take it to a shop that does that sort of thing. Or you find another spec V beam and try to heat and bend it.

[moxie]

It should be noted that Jason is intinmately familiar with Nissan suspension systems... very intimate....

[TopDeadCenter]

My intent on the rear beam was to have one of the more reputable shops known for doing that, do that. I've heard the info on drop springs, also. However, I haven't heard anybody say, "this company can dial in your ride for the track if you give them this info or that info", which is sorta what I'm looking for. Suggestions for spring rates and heights, matching shocks, etc. Also, does anybody know anyone with the nismo bushing set? Feedback on said bushing set?

[kev]

West End alignment in Los Angeles can bend your beam.

I've got a set of never used camber bolts that will work for your spec v. $10 and they are yours.

Tires and alignment would be tops on my list. I couldn't agree with Jason more about NOT using lowering springs (Nismo kit being the exception).

I'd put the control arm bushings at the end of my list.

1. Suspension (sways, konis, nismo, coilovers, etc)
2. Power (I/H/E)

The stillen RSB works well, but it's a bit over priced. Konis on just the stock shocks isn't a bad deal either, but I'd probably just go with the Nismo kit instead.

Too bad you weren't around before Ryan got his red wagon. You could've scored a killer deal on some JICs.

Enuff rambling.

[wgnths]

or my tein ss' i sold from mine........spec v's are easy because you have limited choices. since you actually drive yours on track, you already know to NOT put springs on it. Look for a decent set of used coilovers. ry's jic's were awesome, i liked my tein ss' as well. i had custom spring rates of 8/8.

Beam bending would be awesome, a bigger rear sway will help the car rotate. And i mentioned to you, Hankook rs2's for tires.......just over $100/ea. they will last you a decent amount of time for sure. We can hook you up with our tire guy. Otherwise, i like falken fk451's for street/track.

I/h/e and pulley! pulley will let the car rev quicker, i/h/e you can find used all the time or cheap on ebay. stay away from magnaflow exh! right ry! :lol:

[moxie]

Magnaflow exhaust sounds like ass with a header...

ASS!!!

[91s13]

Also if vibration is not a concern. Remove the counter balance shaft. Stillen has a eliminator kit for that.

As far as the bushings are concerned. The stiffer bushings will giver you better turn in feel and better response. Alignment settings would not change as much under braking and accelerating. So those would not be a bsd thing, but your grip limit would only increase slightly. On the other hand, it would be more harsh, it would vibrate more, and could be noisy.(ie squeeks in the susp.) But thats what you have to sacrifice to make it handle better on the track.

[kev]

Magnaflow exhaust sounds like ass with a header...

ASS!!!

Yes, you will need a monster sized resonator just to make it bearable.

Back to tires. Discount Tire Direct's prices for 205/50/15
hankooks: $98
azenis 615: $85

I'm getting some azenis installed tomorrow.

[wgnths]

oh yes, as jason mentioned........balance shaft removal works well on the spec. i had it done and there was no noticeable vibrations at all. car picked up quicker for sure.

[TopDeadCenter]

Ok, so here's my idea(s), based on all of your input. I've gotta get tires before next track session, so that's a given. Proll'y the rs-2's. They seem like a good deal $/performance. Also, my clutch is on it's way out. 95k on the original clutch with 5 weekends of track abuse. I'm looking into a lightened flywheel to go with that, and possibly the BSR kit. Those 2'll give me an excuse to go to sunny diego for the install. In addition, bending the rear beam to 0 toe, and one (not sure which,yet) rear a/r bar. Up front, the camber bolts. (KEV, I'LL TAKE 'EM. Check your PM's) To round it all out, s/s braided brake lines and new fluids througout. With these mods, do you guys think I've gotta shot at the Surge Time Attack Slow Class win being as my 1st full weekend in DE2 I was running 1:18's, and have had 3 weekends practice and a bump to DE3 since?

[moxie]

I think those mods would definately allow you to make a decent showing in the Time Attack.

Class A isn't even all that slow with those friggen R Tired Hondas
I think you would do good though.

What are you running for pads?

[TopDeadCenter]

I've been running stock until my last time at the track, were the 40 min DE3/4 session cracked 2 pads and destroyed what was left of those that didn't crack. I think some of you got to see and hear how that went. Now I've got some crappy checker ceramic pads up front and stockers still in the rear. I'm not sure if I'm to a point where monster pads will help me, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt. Most of my braking points are repeatable probably +/- 2 feet, but I've got P.I.R. turn 9 down to +/- a couple inches, as long as they don't "fix" the 8 foot wide crack in the road.

[91s13]

You should have no problems in the low hp class. Doing a 1:18 is damn good in DE2 considering you never really get a good clean lap. You shold be able to pick up a second or two in DE3. Class A is definately the class to be in. Lots of good competition.

[moxie]

I would get pads.

:)

Spec V is a lighter car, which means maybe you dont need the monster pad, but HPS pads are very streetable. And real mean use HP+ on the street too... ;)


I fade my HPS out after just a few hot laps, and thats with 2-piece rotors and bigger calipers.

[wgnths]

your plan sounds right on. get to surge and order some hawk hps pads though. at least up front, though check your rears. class a will be fun for you, but as ry said, their are race tire'd hondas to compete with.......and jason. :)

[91s13]

Ha! not me. I never could do any faster than 1:19's. And I am in DE3

[wgnths]

*coughsr20cough*

[91s13]

Yeah, but like Brady says, I'll problably only do a 1:16 with that setup.

[phoenixZ33]

From what I've been told by everyone on earth, the NISMO R-Tune rear sway bar is by far the best thing you can do that car. I haven't driven a car with one so I couldn't tell you, but I've driven a couple B15s with huge rear bars and they made a huge difference.

The NISMO springs and shock setup is pretty bitchin too. I wasn't a believer in the possibility that springs and shocks could be better than coilovers, until I drove Jason's Z on the track with the NISMO stuff. The difference was amazing - one of the best balanced cars I've ever driven. From what I hear, the SER with the NISMO package is even better than the Z.

From there I'd go with a bigger wheel if possible.. will a 17x8 fit a Spec V? A 17x8 with a 235/40R17 would be an ideal setup. Get some Yokohama A032Rs in that size.

Then for power, just the usual stuff.. header, intake, exhaust, remove balancer shafts and that should be a good start. I have a trick ECU for the 2006 Spec V that gained 12hp at the wheels; I don't know if anyone makes anything for it or not otherwise though.

170hp at the wheels, big sticky tires, good suspension and an aggressive alignment should make a huge difference.

[TopDeadCenter]

Actually, for the track, I was thinking about eventually getting SMALLER diameter, wider rims and rubber. 15x8 is the smallest that'll fit, I believe. The idea being that:
1. you reduce unsprung, rotating weight significantly. This should improve the response of the spring/shock package, regardless if it's stock/nismo/custom.
2. Increase braking by reducing the leverage the larger tire has over the smaller rotor. of course this also requires better pads in order to deal with the increased temps that'd be caused by less airflow, so it'd kinda be a 2fold benefit with the pads.
3. An overall gearing reduction would help the motor rev, and with a few of the suggested motor mods, put the gearing almost exactly where it'd need to be to top out @ PIR.

[wgnths]

or you'd run out of steam up top. before i turbo'd mine, with the few bolt ons and balance shaft removed, i dyno'd 170/170 to the wheels. car felt good at that level.

[TopDeadCenter]

The way I run now, I can barely click past 100 going into turn 1. The 15x8 package I mentioned earlier is only about 6% smaller. As I've heard, the spec-v tranny is only good to around 130mph before you get into the rev limiter. My figuring put me right at the top of 6th with a few bolt-ons and the smaller tires. But, you may be right; I may be crazy.

[moxie]

Spec Vs aren't top end cars, though with the gearing advantage you can probably pick up a little more speed.

What the top geared speed with the smaller tires?


It will be interesting to see, dont see alot of b15s on the track.

[phoenixZ33]

I find it hard to believe you'll gain anything by going to a smaller gear ratio - the Spec V already has very short gears to begin with. If you were to theoretically gear it so top of 6th is your final speed at the end of the straight, you'll be shifting all over the place through the infield. You should really only need 3rd and 4th gear in the infield section. In my car I top out 4th at the end of the straight. There's nothing wrong with not using 5th or 6th gear at any point on the track.

Is the difference you're going to feel from the smaller rotating assembly based on any real world experience, or just thoery? I'm not trying to be a dick, I just ask because I've put about 10 wheel/tire sizes on my 240 and never been able to feel the difference. On my Z, I went from a 27lb wheel with an 18" tire to a 16lb wheel with a 17" tire and couldn't even feel it. If running small wheels and tires was the answer, everyone would be doing it.

As your speed increases around the track from all the modifications and driver confidence, your brakes are going to start sucking really bad. I don't know what brake setup will fit under a 15" wheel, yet withstand a day's abuse on a 2900lb car.

[wgnths]

also, i dont think the smaller wheel setup will gain *enough* advantage on top end to sacrifice more shifting on the infield. i think with 17's and bolt ons, you'll find no need to go to a smaller wheel for top end. :wink:

[TopDeadCenter]

You guy's have some very valid points. On a car, the smaller wheel thing is just theory for me, but I driven and modded enough dirtbikes and crotchrockets to know that it does work in practice. take, for instance the old F-1 car that had 4 FRONT tires of a very small diameter that all turned together. I met one of the crew members from that team @ road america back in the day. He said the number 1 reason for doing that was a reduction in rotating and unsprung mass. The number 2 reason(doesn't apply in my case) was reduced air resistance. one thing i forgot to take into account was the vast increase in the number of shifts that would probably nullify any advantage the smaller rotating diameter would bring. that and with that much less rubber, tires get REALLY expensive. I may just look at so wide, light 16's, eventually.

[kev]

For my spec, my butt dyno didn't show much of a difference when going from stock 02 spec v rims (~24 lbs) to 17x7 OZ Superleggeras (~18 lbs). My theory is that due to the spec's torque, lighter wheels (same size tires) doesn't make a huge diff. Lighter wheels might benefit cars with less torque (ie hondas)

225/45/17's and the slightly larger tire diameter is not a bad thing for the spec. If I were you, I'd seriously consider the 235/40/17 hankook ;)

btw...i'm a lazy ass and keep forgetting to call you about the camber bolts :oops:

[TopDeadCenter]

Don't stress it. I just realized this weekend that I've gotta put "some" of these off. My A/C don't work!

[moxie]

Could have leaked out your refrigerant.


I had a leaky hose on my 02 Spec V.... It leaked slowly, so a recharge usually kept me going for a while.

I never did tell anyone about that...
:)


Do you have a testing gauge?

[TopDeadCenter]

Don't need one. It puked all the oil on my undercarriage. I 1st realized it when I was replacing my belt tensioner assembly.

[moxie]

Well... that would do it